Theres so much drama, embellishment and iconic silhouettes among them, and I want to continue exploring these references to show that religion is a purely social and monetary construct, and is as much about fashion as a ready-to-wear or couture collection from whatever designer. Dedicated to bringing latex into a fashion-forward context, Davis has been working with the fabric since 2013. There are times when youre drowning and times when youre okay.". I suppose Id really just tell them to think about what they want to offer and what kind of business they want to have, what kind of structure, because the best way to be sustainable is to be flexible and to make small. Even though this London Fashion Week went ahead Claire thinks the pandemic should be used as a watershed moment to reevaluate the old guard. Having had a completely sustainable brand where that mantra is evident in every area of the business, she would like to take this blueprint to others who currently think theyre making a difference by having one sustainable product or a tiny annexed sustainability team that lacks decision-making power. 3d I started in 2013 and things have changed so much in the last 7 years. Launched in 2013, Paper Journal aims to bring you the very best in contemporary photography and fashion. I was told the teams had to be made up of people from different places but there were different rules for everyone. Today, Claire shares her expert insight into starting your own brand, authentic storytelling and embracing sustainability. The London-based designer, who specialises in working with latex, is not only doing exciting things in fashion design, shes also using her platform to talk about relatable issues close to her heart - from sustainability and the problem with unpaid internships, to her experience with grief and why we need to openly talk about loss. Thinking from my perspective, if people wanted to intern with me but obviously couldnt then a nice way to work together would be to set a project. Sign up to our free weekly newsletter for skincare and self-care, the latest cultural hits to read and download, and the little luxuries that make staying in so much more satisfying. I worked with artist Chris Fowler on this shoot, mainly just because we wanted to create something fun and in line with the inspiration of the collection. How has this affected your business and your creativity? A lot of our readers are students or new graduates and were planning on interning over their summers or starting graduate placements. Given that the aesthetic was inherently inspired by their previous work and racial community it was a difficult decision but they hadnt performed well. You have a grave-digging party and every process of the funeral is a celebration where everyone is cooking food and coming together., She pauses, thoughtfully. Its also important to interact with your customer base, knowing when they want things and then being able to provide it. If you are making a conscious collection, at the very basis your packaging should be recyclable and those things are really simple, especially if youre a big brand. I think this time around the lime satin tailored jacket and the black latex version are my favourite pieces. I think a lot of people also want their own label, theres this mindset of I dont want to work for anyone else, and yknow, you want to be the designer. I think if you can recognise that the system as it currently stands is broken then theres no point in trying to participate until theres enough that are all in the right stage and feel the same and are ready to rebuild it together. Unfortunately, profit margins are way more important to brands than environmental damage and slavery, so I think fashion still has an incredibly long way to go. Like I know the tasks that need to be done, but if someone else is better at that task than me then tell me what you need, dont have it that Im telling you what to do. The show was a rollercoaster of insane highs and extreme lows," she tells me. At BRICKS we like to share the love who are some emerging creatives in your field who you think are killing it? You need to speak to people who have success in the current climate. But also when it comes to the actual product side, its all really linked to what kind of product and what the purpose of it is, because if youve got a product that you need to release at this time of year and in this location, those kinds of restrictions are going to cause you problems. At one time I felt the same, that I couldnt talk about sustainability, but then I realised you just need to be clear. Theres nothing shameful about losing a loved one and I shouldnt have been made to feel awkward talking about it. Having watched the show again Claire realised that her full name, nor Hanger Inc, were never mentioned meaning that even though the show aired globally, she received less promotion and character development. Plus, sign up here to get Harpers Bazaar magazine delivered straight to your door. . So when the pandemic hit I sent my team home early because there wasnt much we could do, our studio is in Soho so I asked everyone to stay home. So its so important to build a system that works for you, not against you. Hey Fashion! The night before that scene shed got into a huge argument with her partner and was experiencing a whirlwind of PMS and when Tan France pulled her into a backroom to ask her if she was OK. She broke down and spoke about everything including the fact that Kiki and Farai were still there despite the fact that they were stapling clothes together. Davis describes how she felt overwhelmed by the structure of the industry. Davis' father was Jamaican, so the funeral itself was very different to those we might be familiar with in the UK. And weed-infused gowns. "I found that, when I finally would release my stuff, it'd be new or relevant for about a month and then it was already old and then I was expected to send across the next thing. nothanksm8. Im really into cinema and thats because my Dad brought me up on horror films since I was around 5. Of course to some degree at the start, but the delegating to me becomes worse when were all together all of the time. Martine Jarlgaard whose designs are comprised of dressy nostalgia and understated decadence is up next. I was always customising and creating while growing up, so I knew thats what I wanted to do and thats what I was good at, she says. Claire Yurika Davis's Page. For me as a person, I want to give myself the least amount of pressure possible and I think thats a good way of doing it. If you want your brand to be pandemic-proof then your working and business structure has to be super flexible. I get people asking me for advice all the time, especially after appearing on the Netflix series Next In Fashion, but people ask the vaguest questions! I grew up in the Moonies, or as its formally named, The Unification Church, she explains. Davis points out that there are support groups available such as The Grief Network, which talks openly about death and supports those grieving in the same candid, straightforward way. As we talk, I reflect on what we both have in common, losing a parent at a young age. Claire Yurika Davis in conversation with Ruby Abiss discussing HANGER and the place of sustainability in our garments. My mum is Japanese but we live in England and I was brought up with relatively no money we didnt really go back to Japan that much and I didnt really know that many Japanese people here so I always felt quite disconnected from my Japanese heritage, so a lot of my work was my way of exploring that in a way that felt exciting. The main starting point is talking about it and opening up the conversations. Start by joining various support groups, reading, listening to grief-focused podcasts, she suggests, or simply by sharing your feelings with your friends and family. However, the problem with programmes like these is that they give you mentors who are reasonably old white folk who have no idea of the world currently and how that world impacts you, especially as a black or brown female, so the advice you end up getting would have been correct maybe 10-15 years ago, but not now. I really feel like it needs to be integrated from the beginning, from the bottom up, and now is such a good time to do it there are so many courses and online resources you can use. Claire Yurika Davis. To be honest, the journey also had a ton of struggles; upscaling can be incredibly hard when youre doing everything for the first time. But lets not get religious twisted with spirituality. 4,951 Likes, 387 Comments - Yurika (@thehaipriestxss) on Instagram: "OMG my @hanger_inc latex jeans and @neverbecky 's butt became a meme an u don't know how much this" From one collection to the next there could be a link between the characters, but mainly Im envisioning dressing people of the future, in a specific time and place., When it comes to what she has in store for these characters further down the line, the designer is ambitious. Ive included designs in final collections that have come from an interns project. Yeah, totally, like Im not about to try and remanufacture a wheel I dont have the tools to fix it with its not my place and its too much of a burden, but what I can do is interact with people in that space and try and insert a little bit of knowledge and change a little bit of behaviour. 88 pages, perfect bound, printed on premium coated paper. Meanwhile, Marco Morante and Ashton Hirota, and Farai Simoyi-Agbede and Kianga Kiki Milele, were best friends who had worked with each other before. Claire Yurika. Claire is a sustainability consultant and the founder of HANGER. The framing of the pair as black women who needed saving did not extend to Claire who is both black and Japanese. The people around me really drive me and push me creatively, and fortunately, my close circle is full of creatives with whom I work regularly. It wasnt the only time her mixed heritage rendered her invisible. "It was taking a toll on my mental and physical health. Hangers final sample sale will take place in Soho, 26 September. Parley are great, and Adidas are not, but now theyre doing it together and Adidas are advertising this one shoe like its going to save the world when they havent even incorporated those practices into the rest of their brand. The designer wanted to dismantle some of the taboo that still exists around talking about grief and loss. The use of strong, bold fabrics like latex may conjure up images of sex dungeons and '80s sci-fi thrillers, but Hanger is about a lot more than just overt displays of sexuality. While its bold, innovative and statement-making. Its difficult but also simple, she says. It was actually one of my early mentors that pointed out to me that it was important to talk about sustainability more and be transparent with what were doing. People all over the world still bless their food to framed pictures of men so I suppose, really, my childhood wasnt that strange at all., I grew up in the Moonies, which is not what most people would probably envisage a cult to be there were no vibey robes or wild orgies, but there was a lot of pyramid scheme money-grabbing and brainwashing Claire Yurika Davis, A new film, Temple of Sleepy Chanpremiered on Nowness last week, further emphasising the cult-ish feeling behind the collection. When Im designing, I have a group of characters in mind, which is why theres always such a definitive storyline between each collection, like the commune of Sleepy Chan. That was really what was on my mind this season, explains Hanger designerClaire Yurika Davis of her new collection, Sleepy Chan. Can digital really be the future of fashion week? Spirituality Lead Florence Huntington-Whiteley Talent + Community Nobody does and we all know this now. In a document titled Manifesting Utopia, released in April, they suggest expanding the format of manifestos to include multiple points of interaction. Two winners were given a grant of 50,000 each, along with business support, plus an edit of their collections sold on ASOS.com. Founded in London, designer Claire Yurika Davis originally kicked things off in 2013. Shortly after graduating in 2012, Davis founded her own label, Hanger, in 2013, with the simple aim of creating "good clothes for good people. For more on Davis' brand visit Hanger Inc or to book a tarot reading visit Yuri Tarot. Have you experienced any issues due to the pandemic at HANGER and how have you managed to overcome them? You should be able to do it for everything now we can see that you can make clothes sustainably, so just fucking do it. As an advocate for sustainability, she felt it was. I know, he had no concept of age restrictions and just wanted to watch things together. When did you decide you were going to start your own brand? So what did you do next, once you had the name? Marrying storytelling with her love of design, she strived to create a narrative for each collection as if it were the wardrobe of different characters. I remember at a BRICKS Talks we hosted last year that you were on the panel of one of the panellists mentioned that big fast fashion companies werent reporting on some of the steps they were taking because it invites criticism of the things they werent doing. I liked the word, it was simple, it essentially didnt mean anything, it refers to a clothes hanger which is like the most basic thing and I liked that non-name-ness about it. It might not be something you'd typically find hanging in the wardrobe, but it's a renewable fabric that's surprisingly wearable - try these cycling shorts on for size. What is the best thing they can do for their career in the meantime, during lockdown? What I do is most definitely influenced by them and so all of the work I put out with Hanger is one hundred per cent a collaborative effort. And really, if youre a business that isnt B2B (so you dont sell directly to retailers or wholesalers) then youre automatically winning as youre cutting out all of that crap, so you wont get fined for sending something in a week late and all of the penalisations that comes with working with retailers. Unfortunately, profit margins are way more important to brands than environmental damage and slavery, so I think fashion still has an incredibly long way to go.. A post shared by Claire Yurika Davis (@slytherinsextherapist) Davis describes how she felt overwhelmed by the structure of the industry. After university, I basically went straight into a job that came off the back of an internship Id done for a few weeks Im good at sewing and it was a machinist job sewing lingerie. Career: Claire's designs explore eco-friendly fashion. At some point I started sending a friend, who was a white guy, to talk to them and then obviously everything was fine and sorted straight away. I was really tired and feeling the effects of working non-stop and burning myself out, and so were a lot of my friends, she continues. But I mean, theres ways that you can change that, as we talked about before, you dont need to operate with that structure and do all of that boring stuff if thats not for you. You need a story and the only way youre going to show people this story in an authentic way is if its your story. Summary I am so excited for this week's episode with the iconic Claire Yurika, aka The High Priestexx, and founder of Hangar and the more recently Cogdis Studio. With an experience like that, you really do need support, so you come together to do so.. Tasarmlarn doadan elde edilen, yenilenebilir ve biyoznr lateks malzemesi ve keneviri kullanarak retiyor But nothing good comes easy, apparently? The last time I did something that wasnt latex I released some cotton T-shirts with Everpress, and it meant that I could ensure the production was totally sustainable. Um, no! So as soon as I had the name I registered the company, and I think I did that about two years before I started doing anything with it. Its about being at peace with something that happens all around us, to everyone. Harper's BAZAAR participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. Though it was praised for being the antidote to bitchy fashion reality television, when we bumped into each other shortly afterward in a bar in Dalston Claire revealed that she felt let down by the show.

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