I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. Holley Sniper EFI 550-552 Holley Sniper EFI Autolite 1100 - Gold It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. Holley Sniper IAC | Chevy Nova Forum Thanks. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? :-). The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. It won't take much! The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. That is not something I'd ignore. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. Chris thank you for the info. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. Part# 538-13. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. I keep doing that with the same result. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. Hi. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. Holley Motor Life It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. $107.95. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. I'd really appreciate some help. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Explained: Holley EFI Sensors and What They Do It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Jump on board now! Top 10 Sniper EFI Installation Tips from Holley's Tom Kise Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Do you have a PCV on the engine? Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! If they are closed, check the primaries. Any suggestions? I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. Your AFR is pegged lean. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. Holley Sniper EFI 543-122 Sniper EFI Remote IAC Kit I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. Except at idle. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. lower until I turn down the set screw. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. It could be a couple of things. Car was running great initially. I recently install a sniper efi. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. Glad to hear that things are working well! If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. You advise would be greatly appreciated. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. It is simply for the benefit of the user. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. All times are GMT-6. Holley have given a new unit. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. P.S. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Going back to what you said. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. Without it you are working in the dark. Don't try to correct for the fuel. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. No problems with either cold or hot starts. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Holley Sniper Iac Delete Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Laptop Access Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Engine Startup Tuning for Sniper and Terminator X Stealth Owners !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. All times are GMT-6. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Cl. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. We do that but most places don't. ps. I had this same exact issue. Thanks again. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. Idle IAC problems? - Holley Performance Products Forums I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. Try it! Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. Jun 12, 2021. Kind of cuts into forum time. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Holley Pro-Jection TBI Replacement Parts - JEGS The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. It does this with the engine off. I have not heard of this. Thanks again for your insights! Hello. If so remove it. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. Holley Sniper EFI Troubleshooting Mudford Garage 8.6K subscribers 38K views 3 years ago My Bronco with Holley Sniper EFI was running poorly. check out the. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. Or is there something else I should Am I missing something. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. when things aren't working and this provides just that. A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. If you use your handheld to go here: Hello I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. That is the IAC hold position. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. It is a common one. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. IAC Calibration / Hanging rpms | Team Chevelle I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. Please advise. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? ChrisI finally got everything resolved. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Thanks for all your help Chris! It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? I looking for your expert opinion. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. MSD pro billet and 6AL box Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. idle counts from 0. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Shut off car/restart and it's back to idle at If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. Turned it off and on again. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. back to trying to zero down an idle. is the fuel pressure. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? What should I be looking at to calm this down? (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle.

Georgia Standard Deduction And Personal Exemptions 2021, Kiko Mizuhara Wedding, Tevin Campbell Official Website, Malibu City Council Election Results 2020, Articles H